Creating Estella: Make Up designs

Design 1:

In the first design I was thinking to show her suffering from her abusive husband. To achieve that I created a black eye and some bruises on her face. I also wanted that she looks very tired and how she is just done with that situation.

I decided against that design because first of all a lot of people wanted to show the domestic violence and secondly my model had such long hair that I wanted to keep the make up very simple so I don't waste that much time on it.

Design 2:

It is a very simple and natural look using just Etude House BB cream and some blusher and lip tint. In that case it is a peachy look, (Illamasqua blusher duo/peachy color, Benefit cha cha lip tint in orange). I decided to use this design for my Estella look because I think it goes well with the flowers I want to stick  in the hair and it will look natural but also fresh.

 Design 3:

Same as design 2 just that the color theme here is a nice rosé. Also used Etude House BB cream, Illamasqua blusher duo/pink colour and Etude House mini lip tint. The look is also very natural and simple

Death masks

 In today's lesson we were doing Death mask, which was a lot of fun. First we took a picture of us in black and white under a light to see where the shadows and highlight in our face are.

Products used:

• sponges
• Kryolan supercolour, white and black; mix them to achieve the grey tones you need
• brush kit: foundation brush, smaller brushes for small areas

I started with applying the white supercolour all over my face. For applying the base I used my foundation brush but later when applying the black and grey tones I used sponges because it was easier to blend with them without having to harsh lines. Then I had a look at the picture of myself where I have dark shadows and started working on them. I started with the eye area first. Then the mouth and chin/cheeks area. Afterwards I did the grey tones and then I had to blend blend blend. Parts that were too dark I lightened up with some white.After  I was done I took pictures in black and white modus and compared them with my original black and white picture.

After comparing the pictures I realized I could have done the mouth part, cheeks and under the eyes a bit darker.

Lesson: 2 Estella looks on one face

In lessons we were supposed to create two looks on one face (half/half look). We could choose between Miss Havisham and Estella. I decided to do Estella as I wanted to practice creating a black eye. As you can see the left side reflects the domestic violence, she suffered from while she was married. On the right side I decided to do a very simple and natural look as women weren't wearing Make Up during the Victorian Era.

 Products:

• Kryolan Ultrafoundation palette
• Illamasqua translucent powder
• mascara
• Kryolan eye shadow palette
• clear lip gloss
• Illamasqua powder blusher duo
• eyebrow kit
• Kryolan super colour palette

-> I applied the foundation on all of her face, used Alabaster from the Kryolan Ultrafoundation palette

->blend base well and then powder

->on the right side(the natural make up side): fill in eyebrows and give them a nice shape->but keep them looking natural, applied 'Lover' from the Illamasqua powder blusher duo on the eye, the pale peachy colour gives it a nice fresh look, apply mascara, clear lip gloss for the lips, using the same colour as for the eye ,apply it very gently on the cheek->should almost be invisible 

->left side (bruised side): I wanted to create a bruise that is quite fresh but not one that just happened, so mine a couple of days old, to create the black eye I used 509, Gr42, BL10, 081, Lila and a tiny tiny bit of 071 from the Kryolan super colour palette but of course you could also use eye shadow 

->I started with applying yellow then green under the eye and in the corner of the eye, afterwards I applied the red and purple, make sure to blend well, I wanted to give it more depth on the eyelid so I added a tiny bit of black

->filled in the lower waterline with the 079 red from the Kryolan super colour palette-> giving it a sad/watery I affect

->otherwise I haven't done anything really on that side

->just contoured the cheeks with Caraway from the eye shadow palette to give it tired and un-cared-for look

->also using a bit of brown eye shadow or maybe even better would be 'Heliopolis' from the Illamasqua Sculpting Powder Duo and move the lip a bit downwards->also creating sad impression

Creating Miss Havisham: Assessment

Miss Havisham step by step

Consultation Notes

Products used:
• Hair kit; brush, pin tail comb, sectioning clips , hair pins and bands
• Heat protection
•  hair spray
• Brush kit
• Kryolan foundation palette->Alabaster
• Illamasqua skin base
• Kryolan Viva Brilliant Colour Medley Matt Sun eye shadow palette using caraway, white pepper, sage blossom
• Chanel Base Lumière
• Duo glue
• Pipette
• Grey pigment from Studio
• Water
• Dried rose petals
• Self-built birds nest
• Veil
• Dried rose bouquet
• Lip stain 01 from Essence
• Illamasqua translucent powder
• Make up Revolution London Salvation Palette-> run boy run, head start
• Baby powder
• Kryolan super colour palette
• Lace necklace

MAKE UP

• Make sure face is clean!
• Apply Chanel lumière base
• Mix a very light but not too white base using Illamasqua skin base and Kryolan Ultrafoundation palette in Alabaster
• Apply base, blend very well-> don’t forget to do neck and décolleté as well
• Powder with Illamasqua translucent powder
• Using Caraway from Kryolan eye shadow palette do contouring
• Create an ill/ sick looking look
• Apply Caraway also under eyes, add white pepper(parallel to nose), sage blossom (especially in inner corner of eye) and run boy run to create dark circles
• Apply a red( either from super colour palette or the MURL Salvation palette) on the waterline
• Use run boy run on eyelid
• Apply a bit of Head start(black) near the waterline
• The using the pipette create run down tears ->to create tears mix water with the grey pigment-> shake well!
• Curl eyelashes, no mascara!
• Apply duo on lips, let it dry and then pick up bits di create dry lips
• Apply lip stain or 081 super colour on lips to create the effect that she is/was biting her lips
• Stick rose petals on her face
• Stick some of the petals on her  décolleté



HAIR

• Apply heat protection
• Brush through well
• Do middle parting
• Part hair in 3 sections-> I on each side at the front for curling and one big one at the back which will be used for the bun
• At the back: take a small section of the bun section (on the top) to incorporate later in the nest, section the small section into 2 and plait both of them tightly ; section bun section into 3 sections-> 1 big middle one to do a twist, left and right smaller ones which will be plaited (take them a tiny bit apart->look is supposed to look a bit messy) and will be later wrapped around the twist bun part; take middle section and create a  twist-> wrap it loosely around itself  to create a bun shape but pin it very tightly so it won’t fall apart!; then take left and right section and plait-> take a bit apart and wrap it around twist; try to create a big bun, secure with pins and try to hide them as good as possible(but if not it doesn’t matter that much as the model will wear a veil over it )
• Go back to front: put hair spray in before curling-> better hold; curl front sections-> around 4 sections on each side, do nice ringlets; pin curls and leave them to cool down( maybe it would be the best to do the ringlets before doing the bun so they have enough time to cool down)
• Place nest on the right side of the head(right side if you stand behind the person)and pin it in tightly-> add the 2 plaits into nest-> weave through the twigs  and pin them
• Take pins out of the curls and comb them up to create messy curls
• Apply a bit of baby powder to make hair look dry->not too much because the look is supposed to be not too long after her almost wedding
• Place some  dried rose petals and leaves into the hair
• Pin in the veil-> veil is covering all of her head and a bit of forehead

And without the veil

Creating Miss Havisham: Practice _just make up

Products used:
• Kryolan foundation palette->Alabaster
• Illamasqua skin base
• Kryolan Viva Brilliant Colour Medley Matt Sun eye shadow palette using caraway, white pepper, sage blossom
• Chanel Base Lumière
• Duo glue
• Pipette
• Grey pigment from Studio
• Water
• Dried rose petals
• Self-built birds nest
• Veil
• Lip stain 01 from Essence
• Illamasqua translucent powder
• Make up Revolution London Salvation Palette-> run boy run, head start
• Kryolan super colour palette

When I did the first practice for the make up design I still used the face chart of the actual design. I later developed the design to make it less contemporary.

Steps:

• Make sure face is clean!

• Apply Chanel lumière base

• Mix a very light but not too white base using Illamasqua skin base and Kryolan Ultrafoundation palette in Alabaster

• Apply base, blend very well-> don’t forget to do neck and décolleté as well

• Powder with Illamasqua translucent powder

• Using Caraway from Kryolan eye shadow palette do contouring

• Create an ill/ sick looking look

• Apply Caraway also under eyes, add white pepper(parallel to nose), sage blossom (especially in inner corner of eye) and run boy run to create dark circles

• Apply a red( either from super colour palette or the MURL Salvation palette) on the waterline

• Use run boy run on eyelid

• Apply a bit of Head start(black) near the waterline

• The using the pipette create run down tears ->to create tears mix water with the grey pigment-> shake well!

• Curl eyelashes, no mascara!

• Apply duo on lips, let it dry and then pick up bits and create dry lips

• Apply lip stain or 081 super colour on lips to create the effect that she is/was biting her lips

• Stick rose petals on her face

• Stick some of the petals on her  décolleté

Afterwards I realized that the black underneath the eyes is definitely to modern so I removed some of it

It already looks a bit better. But after developing the look I also removed the the black on the moving lid.

The new face chart:

Practicing the developed design:

The run down tears are still quite dark in those images but I made them softer during the assessment.

Also I didn't do the hair here properly. I just put the nest in and placed the veil over the hair so I can see how it would look like.

Creating Miss Havisham: Practice_just hair

Products used:

pin tail comb

paddle brush

veil

dried rose petals

heat protection

self made birds nest

baby powder

section clips

tong

pins

elastics

Hair:

Steps:

• Apply heat protection

• Brush through well

• Do middle parting

• Part hair in 3 sections-> I on each side at the front for curling and one big one at the back which will be used for the bun

• At the back: take a small section of the bun section (on the top) to incorporate later in the nest, section the small section into 2 and plait both of them tightly ; section bun section into 3 sections-> 1 big middle one to do a twist, left and right smaller ones which will be plaited (take them a tiny bit apart->look is supposed to look a bit messy) and will be later wrapped around the twist bun part; take middle section and create a  twist-> wrap it loosely around itself  to create a bun shape but pin it very tightly so it won’t fall apart!; then take left and right section and plait-> take a bit apart and wrap it around twist; try to create a big bun, secure with pins and try to hide them as good as possible(but if not it doesn't matter that much as the model will wear a veil over it )

• Go back to front: put hair spray in before curling-> better hold; curl front sections-> around 4 sections on each side, do nice ringlets; pin curls and leave them to cool down( maybe it would be the best to do the ringlets before doing the bun so they have enough time to cool down)

• Place nest on the right side of the head(right side if you stand behind the person)and pin it in tightly-> add the 2 plaits into nest-> weave through the twigs  and pin them

• Take pins out of the curls and comb them up to create messy curls

• Apply a bit of baby powder to make hair look dry->not too much because the look is supposed to be not too long after her almost wedding

• Place some  dried rose petals and leaves into the hair

• Pin in the veil-> veil is covering all of her head and a bit of forehead

Creating the bun:

Curls at the front: before and after brushing them out

Applying the nest:

Then apply the veil: