Skin Illnesses/ Dry skin/ Rushes/ Sweat/ Dirty Hands

Products:
• Old age stipple
• Duo
• Blood
• Tear stick
• Super colour
• Coloured hair spray
• Water spray bottle
• Dry shampoo
• Baby powder
• Glycerine (can get from boots)
• alcohol


->when greasing down hair do it from the scalp
->can use water for sweat-> apply in hair as well
->think about where people get hot, for example if they have a fever
->glycerine-> use black stipple sponge and dap on face
->falling tears: use eye drops( get from boots or superdrug) get a couple of those in extra ampules
->red eye ->red eye drops
->sore eyes-> kryolan pencil, red pencil-> crimson scarlett
->can fill in ear piercing holes with modelling wax
->adding gold into foundation can lift up face colour

DRY SKIN
• Make up under duo
• Make up on top of old age stipple
• Apply barrier cream where you want to use the old age stipple
• Then apply old age stipple-> using a sponge stipple it on, feathering edges, no hard edges!!
• Can layer up
• No stretching-> you don’t want to create old age!
• Using a cool hair dryer dry the old age stipple
• The rub it to get dry skin
• Foundation+ white+ tiny bit of yellow-> Victorian people were pale but not as white as during Elizabethan era!
• If you have edges between old age stipple and base use tiny bit of duo and back it up
• Under eyes-> tired look-> use small brush and bluey –brown eye shadow; look down and go along the shadow; near eye apply a bit of red-> blend!

WOUNDS IN DRY SKIN
• Make skin look a bit sore
• Use super colour
• Powder-> for extra dryness and to take down redness if it is too much
• Bit of Vaseline on sore bits and blood

RUSH
• Mix alcohol with the colour you want to use
• Model should close eyes
• Use 2 red tones
• Flick it with a brush( freckles can be done like that)

HOT & SWEATY
• Red face/cheeks
• Down the nose, cheeks, chin, forehead stipple with fingers
• Don’t powder
• Spray water in hair and bit in face
• Push hair down


->duo on lips-> pick out skin on lips and go into the cracks with a small brush or pin and add some red/blood for bleeding effect

DIRTY HANDS
• When dirtying hands don’t forget the nails
• Bend fingers while applying the colour
• Can use tiny bit of moisturizer
• Use a sponge and brown
• Can also use brown hair spray
• Rub it right in
• Powder to make it look dusty
• Mud-> mix powder with water and water colour

dry and wounded skin

Understanding of continuity and its importance in TV and film industry

My understanding of continuity is that something continues, it keeps going and if you put it in the make up and hair context when it comes to theatre, film and TV , it means that something has to look the same. For example if a film is being shot and they do a break just in between or they continue to shoot on the next day , the make up and hair has to look exactly the same as it did before. Otherwise the audience will notice that there was an interruption. I think it is especially important when you do special effects to have notes that will help you to achieve the look again or even the use of molds if you do scars, so the actor will have the same scar and not one with a different shape or size.

To achieve the same look for my continuity assessment, I wrote down some notes and also printed out images from the first assessment and pinned them on the mirror to match it. Unfortunately my printer does not print that well and the images were kind of in a bad quality but I had them also on my phone so it was alright. The most important thing for my continuity assessment was the recreation of the run down tears. It was tricky because you can't really direct the way of the tears. That's why I practiced before the assessments which the best angle is to apply the tears with the pipette. Apart from recreating the direction of the tears I also had to consider the mixing ration of the water and grey pigment I used to create the run down tears. It seems that for the continuity assessment the ratio was a bit darker/stronger and so the tears looked slightly darker, but I think it is not that obvious. Hopefully! Another point where I had to pay attention to were the dark circles underneath the eyes. I had to make sure that they are not darker or lighter then before. Otherwise there wasn't anything else when it comes to the make up. I was quite relaxed with the hair, because most of it it was underneath a veil. Nonetheless I tried my best to recreate the same hairstyle. I also took pictures of how the hair looked underneath the veil and in what position the birds nest was. So basically I just had to pay attention to the curls at the front which wear poking out from underneath the veil and I thought I can't do much wrong there. Well I was wrong. There are two medium sized curling tongs we have in the studio and unluckily I grabbed the wrong one:) So when I did the ringlets at the front I noticed that they are looser than the last time and it frustrated me a bit but overall it was alright because I would mess up the curls anyway. So yeah it is important to pay attention to what kind of curling tong your are grabbing especially if they look very similar.

Otherwise I found the continuity assessment was a nice challenge for myself, to test how far I am capable to recreate the look.

Continuity notes for the hair:

• 3 sections on each side at the front for the ringlets
• when plaiting the braids which go into the bun make sure to take them a bit apart before joining, to make them look bigger
• DON'T take the plaits apart which go into the birds nest!they need to be tight
• place the nest on the right side of the head( right side if you are standing behind the person)
• apply the baby powder at last to make the hair look dry and dusty
• try to add the dried leaves and rose petals on the same places on the hair as before-> check with images

Continuity notes for the make up:

• try to get similar ratio for the tears mix as before
• tell model to lean back with her head so I can apply the tears in the right angle with the pipette 
• try applying the tears as close to the waterline as possible
• don't go too dark with the dark circles, keep comparing with the images of the first assessment as you keep applying the colours, build up the colours, you can always add more if necessary
• use supercolour for the bitten and dry lips instead of the lip stain. 

What is also important is to bring the props in that have been used for the first shoot.

Props to bring in:

• self made birds nest
• veil
• dry leaves and rose petals, remember that you placed some dry rose petals on her decollete as well
• lace necklace
• dried rose bouquet
• remind model to wear the same clothes

Images from the first assessment

Creating Estella: Hair designs

NOTE: My model has very long hair. How can I do the look still during the given time and do make up as well? 

Design 1:

  

The first design was inspired by the late Victorian hairstyle we did during our lesson. I just added some more ringlets at the back and flowers in the hair . To see the steps for that hairstyle just go to late Victorian hair post and then just add the ringlets at the back in the end. I only did the hairstyle on my dolls head so when I tried it on my model it didn't work out because she has very! long hair and by the time I curled all the hair almost 2 hours past and that was too long(I don't have that much time for the assessment!) So I had to make changes to the hairstyle as I wanted to use that design as my final design for Estella.

Design 1_ Development:

When I developed my design I did a huge bun at the back of the head to get rid of a lot of hair. Then I placed the curls I wanted to do on the bun to hide it. Otherwise I kept the ringlets at the back and added some more at the front. I will also add fresh flower heads on the assessment day.

Design 2:

For my second design I do a middle parting and separate a section on each side. Those will be plated later and then join the bun at the back. This design is more early Victorian. At the back of the head I did a huge bun which will be a normal plait which is twisted around itself and then pinned down. I also added 3 ringlets at the neck .

Design 3:

My last design had also a big bun out of a plait at the back. At the front she will have about 3-4 ringlets on each side. This is a very typical early Victorian hairstyle. But I decided not to do that design because it is too similar to my Miss Havisham hair design I did for the assessment even if it would have been the easiest and best design to do for a model with such a long hair.

Creating Estella: Make Up designs

Design 1:

In the first design I was thinking to show her suffering from her abusive husband. To achieve that I created a black eye and some bruises on her face. I also wanted that she looks very tired and how she is just done with that situation.

I decided against that design because first of all a lot of people wanted to show the domestic violence and secondly my model had such long hair that I wanted to keep the make up very simple so I don't waste that much time on it.

Design 2:

It is a very simple and natural look using just Etude House BB cream and some blusher and lip tint. In that case it is a peachy look, (Illamasqua blusher duo/peachy color, Benefit cha cha lip tint in orange). I decided to use this design for my Estella look because I think it goes well with the flowers I want to stick  in the hair and it will look natural but also fresh.

 Design 3:

Same as design 2 just that the color theme here is a nice rosé. Also used Etude House BB cream, Illamasqua blusher duo/pink colour and Etude House mini lip tint. The look is also very natural and simple

Death masks

 In today's lesson we were doing Death mask, which was a lot of fun. First we took a picture of us in black and white under a light to see where the shadows and highlight in our face are.

Products used:

• sponges
• Kryolan supercolour, white and black; mix them to achieve the grey tones you need
• brush kit: foundation brush, smaller brushes for small areas

I started with applying the white supercolour all over my face. For applying the base I used my foundation brush but later when applying the black and grey tones I used sponges because it was easier to blend with them without having to harsh lines. Then I had a look at the picture of myself where I have dark shadows and started working on them. I started with the eye area first. Then the mouth and chin/cheeks area. Afterwards I did the grey tones and then I had to blend blend blend. Parts that were too dark I lightened up with some white.After  I was done I took pictures in black and white modus and compared them with my original black and white picture.

After comparing the pictures I realized I could have done the mouth part, cheeks and under the eyes a bit darker.

Lesson: 2 Estella looks on one face

In lessons we were supposed to create two looks on one face (half/half look). We could choose between Miss Havisham and Estella. I decided to do Estella as I wanted to practice creating a black eye. As you can see the left side reflects the domestic violence, she suffered from while she was married. On the right side I decided to do a very simple and natural look as women weren't wearing Make Up during the Victorian Era.

 Products:

• Kryolan Ultrafoundation palette
• Illamasqua translucent powder
• mascara
• Kryolan eye shadow palette
• clear lip gloss
• Illamasqua powder blusher duo
• eyebrow kit
• Kryolan super colour palette

-> I applied the foundation on all of her face, used Alabaster from the Kryolan Ultrafoundation palette

->blend base well and then powder

->on the right side(the natural make up side): fill in eyebrows and give them a nice shape->but keep them looking natural, applied 'Lover' from the Illamasqua powder blusher duo on the eye, the pale peachy colour gives it a nice fresh look, apply mascara, clear lip gloss for the lips, using the same colour as for the eye ,apply it very gently on the cheek->should almost be invisible 

->left side (bruised side): I wanted to create a bruise that is quite fresh but not one that just happened, so mine a couple of days old, to create the black eye I used 509, Gr42, BL10, 081, Lila and a tiny tiny bit of 071 from the Kryolan super colour palette but of course you could also use eye shadow 

->I started with applying yellow then green under the eye and in the corner of the eye, afterwards I applied the red and purple, make sure to blend well, I wanted to give it more depth on the eyelid so I added a tiny bit of black

->filled in the lower waterline with the 079 red from the Kryolan super colour palette-> giving it a sad/watery I affect

->otherwise I haven't done anything really on that side

->just contoured the cheeks with Caraway from the eye shadow palette to give it tired and un-cared-for look

->also using a bit of brown eye shadow or maybe even better would be 'Heliopolis' from the Illamasqua Sculpting Powder Duo and move the lip a bit downwards->also creating sad impression

Creating Miss Havisham: Assessment

Miss Havisham step by step

Consultation Notes

Products used:
• Hair kit; brush, pin tail comb, sectioning clips , hair pins and bands
• Heat protection
•  hair spray
• Brush kit
• Kryolan foundation palette->Alabaster
• Illamasqua skin base
• Kryolan Viva Brilliant Colour Medley Matt Sun eye shadow palette using caraway, white pepper, sage blossom
• Chanel Base Lumière
• Duo glue
• Pipette
• Grey pigment from Studio
• Water
• Dried rose petals
• Self-built birds nest
• Veil
• Dried rose bouquet
• Lip stain 01 from Essence
• Illamasqua translucent powder
• Make up Revolution London Salvation Palette-> run boy run, head start
• Baby powder
• Kryolan super colour palette
• Lace necklace

MAKE UP

• Make sure face is clean!
• Apply Chanel lumière base
• Mix a very light but not too white base using Illamasqua skin base and Kryolan Ultrafoundation palette in Alabaster
• Apply base, blend very well-> don’t forget to do neck and décolleté as well
• Powder with Illamasqua translucent powder
• Using Caraway from Kryolan eye shadow palette do contouring
• Create an ill/ sick looking look
• Apply Caraway also under eyes, add white pepper(parallel to nose), sage blossom (especially in inner corner of eye) and run boy run to create dark circles
• Apply a red( either from super colour palette or the MURL Salvation palette) on the waterline
• Use run boy run on eyelid
• Apply a bit of Head start(black) near the waterline
• The using the pipette create run down tears ->to create tears mix water with the grey pigment-> shake well!
• Curl eyelashes, no mascara!
• Apply duo on lips, let it dry and then pick up bits di create dry lips
• Apply lip stain or 081 super colour on lips to create the effect that she is/was biting her lips
• Stick rose petals on her face
• Stick some of the petals on her  décolleté



HAIR

• Apply heat protection
• Brush through well
• Do middle parting
• Part hair in 3 sections-> I on each side at the front for curling and one big one at the back which will be used for the bun
• At the back: take a small section of the bun section (on the top) to incorporate later in the nest, section the small section into 2 and plait both of them tightly ; section bun section into 3 sections-> 1 big middle one to do a twist, left and right smaller ones which will be plaited (take them a tiny bit apart->look is supposed to look a bit messy) and will be later wrapped around the twist bun part; take middle section and create a  twist-> wrap it loosely around itself  to create a bun shape but pin it very tightly so it won’t fall apart!; then take left and right section and plait-> take a bit apart and wrap it around twist; try to create a big bun, secure with pins and try to hide them as good as possible(but if not it doesn’t matter that much as the model will wear a veil over it )
• Go back to front: put hair spray in before curling-> better hold; curl front sections-> around 4 sections on each side, do nice ringlets; pin curls and leave them to cool down( maybe it would be the best to do the ringlets before doing the bun so they have enough time to cool down)
• Place nest on the right side of the head(right side if you stand behind the person)and pin it in tightly-> add the 2 plaits into nest-> weave through the twigs  and pin them
• Take pins out of the curls and comb them up to create messy curls
• Apply a bit of baby powder to make hair look dry->not too much because the look is supposed to be not too long after her almost wedding
• Place some  dried rose petals and leaves into the hair
• Pin in the veil-> veil is covering all of her head and a bit of forehead

And without the veil