Creating Estella: Assessment

Estella Design step by step

Consultation Notes

MAKE UP

NOTE: Blusher on face chart is a bit to dark, want it to be more subtle 

• Keep it natural!!
Products:
• Etude House BB Cream Blooming
• Rimmel London wake me up 003 peach glow
• Benefit cha cha tint
• Illamasqua power blusher duo
• H&M eyeshadow palette
• Illamasqua Translucent powder
• Brushes
• Eyelash curler


• Apply BB cream and blend well-> natural look, basic coverage
• Apply a peachy eye shadow from the H&M eye shadow palette, not too bright!!
• Use Rimmel London wake me up peach glow and  apply on cheeks to give a fresh look
• Apply Benefit cha cha tint on lips
• Curl eyelashes

HAIR

Products:
• Brush
• Pin tail comb
• Sectioning clips
• Pins
• Hair band
• Fresh flowers
• Hair spray
• Heat protection


• Apply heat protection
• Brush hair well, you don’t want any knots when you start curling
• Front: first create a big section to the ears
• Curls horizontally -> 2 rows
• Curl vertically -> around 2 rows as well
• Before you curls spray hair spray on hair for a better hold-> her hair is extra-long and thick!!
• Back: create a bun( twist and plait), curl the rest of the hair and place it randomly on the bun( so you can’t really see the bun anymore, curls should be ringlets
• At the neck area do nice ringlets-> remember to twist tong in a parallel angle when you curl!
• Take section from front to the bun a s well-> vertical curls: take them back very sleek an pin in, Horizontal curls: create a little wave at the top and pin them back as well
• Lastly place in the fresh flowers

->NOTE: I just changed the created this hair design on the morning of the assessment day because I had trouble with doing my actual design because Anna Maria has such long hair. So I wasn't sure if it would work out but I quite like the outcome. I just messed up the ringlets quite a bit. Even though I curled them in the right angle they didn't look like ringlets. Maybe I did something wrong when releasing the curl?

Creating Estella: Practice

MakeUp:

On the day of the practice I just tested if the Etude House BB cream will suit Anna Maria's skin tones as her skin is a bit darker and the BB cream makes her skin quite white. But I wanted to use BB cream because it still looks natural and I was worried that if I use proper foundation it doesn't look that natural anymore. Luckily the BB cream was fine on her skin. I didn't practiced anything else regarding the makeup on that day as I was running out of time.

Hair:

.

That was the hair design I actually wanted to do but a lot went wrong during the practice.

I did a middle parting and created a section on each side which will be curled. At the back I had 2 main section. A really big one for the curling and a small one at the neck where the hair would be curled into ringlets. Front: I sectioned the main section on each side into 3 little section and curled the hair horizontally. Pin the curls down and let them cool down. At the back: at the back I just curled all of the hair which took forever and was the main thing which made me fail my practice. When I choose Anna Maria as my model I thought her very long her would be good to work with and it was for my Miss Havisham design but it was way more difficult for the Estella look. Especially because I wanted to do a late Victorian look which involves a lot of curling but I only had a certain amount of time during the assessment. I took me 2 hours to curl everything and finish my look but then I saw that it looked a bit funny. I think I placed the curls wrong at the back of the head and also placed the curls from the front section wrongly. This made my look rather wedding like looking than Victorian. But I talked to Lottie and she said that this can happen quickly when doing Victorian hair. The wedding hairstyles evolved from the Victorian hair so it can happen that they look a bit similar. But for myself the practice was a huge fail but it also showed me what I have to change and that I should have thought about how to handle so much long hair before designing.

It looks like she has a birds nest on her head T^T..But yes it is obvious that the end result images don't look like my hair design. Afterwards I decided to use a different model with shorter hair but I wasn't allowed to. So I sat down in the morning at the day of the assessment and went through my new designs with Lottie and she gave me some tips on how to handle the situation and how to work with that much hair. As you could see in my Estella hair design post I developed my hair design and decided to do a big bun first to get rid of a lot of hair and then place the curls on the bun to hide it. I also changed the way I placed the curls because when I did the practice I kind of rolled the curls into pin curls and then pinned them down. This time I placed them more loosely. I also looked up what I did wrong with the front section during practice

Creating Miss Havisham: Continuity Assessment

Miss Havisham step by step

Consultation Notes

Products used:
• Hair kit; brush, pin tail comb, sectioning clips , hair pins and bands
• Heat protection
•  hair spray
• Brush kit
• Kryolan foundation palette->Alabaster
• Illamasqua skin base
• Kryolan Viva Brilliant Colour Medley Matt Sun eye shadow palette using caraway, white pepper, sage blossom
• Chanel Base Lumière
• Duo glue
• Pipette
• Grey pigment from Studio
• Water
• Dried rose petals
• Self-built birds nest
• Veil
• Dried rose bouquet
• Lip stain 01 from Essence
• Illamasqua translucent powder
• Make up Revolution London Salvation Palette-> run boy run, head start
• Baby powder
• Kryolan super colour palette
• Lace necklace

MAKE UP

• Make sure face is clean!
• Apply Chanel lumière base
• Mix a very light but not too white base using Illamasqua skin base and Kryolan Ultrafoundation palette in Alabaster
• Apply base, blend very well-> don’t forget to do neck and décolleté as well
• Powder with Illamasqua translucent powder
• Using Caraway from Kryolan eye shadow palette do contouring
• Create an ill/ sick looking look
• Apply Caraway also under eyes, add white pepper(parallel to nose), sage blossom (especially in inner corner of eye) and run boy run to create dark circles
• Apply a red( either from super colour palette or the MURL Salvation palette) on the waterline
• Use run boy run on eyelid
• Apply a bit of Head start(black) near the waterline
• The using the pipette create run down tears to create tears mix water with the grey pigment-> shake well!
• Curl eyelashes, no mascara!
• Apply duo on lips, let it dry and then pick up bits di create dry lips
• Apply lip stain or 081 super colour on lips to create the effect that she is/was biting her lips
• Stick rose petals on her face
• Stick some of the petals on her  décolleté



HAIR

• Apply heat protection
• Brush through well
• Do middle parting
• Part hair in 3 sections-> I on each side at the front for curling and one big one at the back which will be used for the bun
• At the back: take a small section of the bun section (on the top) to incorporate later in the nest, section the small section into 2 and plait both of them tightly ; section bun section into 3 sections-> 1 big middle one to do a twist, left and right smaller ones which will be plaited (take them a tiny bit apart->look is supposed to look a bit messy) and will be later wrapped around the twist bun part; take middle section and create a  twist-> wrap it loosely around itself  to create a bun shape but pin it very tightly so it won’t fall apart!; then take left and right section and plait-> take a bit apart and wrap it around twist; try to create a big bun, secure with pins and try to hide them as good as possible(but if not it doesn’t matter that much as the model will wear a veil over it )
• Go back to front: put hair spray in before curling-> better hold; curl front sections-> around 4 sections on each side, do nice ringlets; pin curls and leave them to cool down( maybe it would be the best to do the ringlets before doing the bun so they have enough time to cool down)
• Place nest on the right side of the head(right side if you stand behind the person)and pin it in tightly-> add the 2 plaits into nest-> weave through the twigs  and pin them
• Take pins out of the curls and comb them up to create messy curls
• Apply a bit of baby powder to make hair look dry->not too much because the look is supposed to be not too long after her almost wedding
• Place some  dried rose petals and leaves into the hair
• Pin in the veil-> veil is covering all of her head and a bit of forehead

Without veil

Looking at the picture I realized that the water and grey pigment mixture was darker this time. But only a tiny bit. Also at the continuity assessment the run down tears look more defined than from the first shoot. The lips look more natural here as well. In the pictures from the first shoot they look more red.

Skin Illnesses/ Dry skin/ Rushes/ Sweat/ Dirty Hands

Products:
• Old age stipple
• Duo
• Blood
• Tear stick
• Super colour
• Coloured hair spray
• Water spray bottle
• Dry shampoo
• Baby powder
• Glycerine (can get from boots)
• alcohol


->when greasing down hair do it from the scalp
->can use water for sweat-> apply in hair as well
->think about where people get hot, for example if they have a fever
->glycerine-> use black stipple sponge and dap on face
->falling tears: use eye drops( get from boots or superdrug) get a couple of those in extra ampules
->red eye ->red eye drops
->sore eyes-> kryolan pencil, red pencil-> crimson scarlett
->can fill in ear piercing holes with modelling wax
->adding gold into foundation can lift up face colour

DRY SKIN
• Make up under duo
• Make up on top of old age stipple
• Apply barrier cream where you want to use the old age stipple
• Then apply old age stipple-> using a sponge stipple it on, feathering edges, no hard edges!!
• Can layer up
• No stretching-> you don’t want to create old age!
• Using a cool hair dryer dry the old age stipple
• The rub it to get dry skin
• Foundation+ white+ tiny bit of yellow-> Victorian people were pale but not as white as during Elizabethan era!
• If you have edges between old age stipple and base use tiny bit of duo and back it up
• Under eyes-> tired look-> use small brush and bluey –brown eye shadow; look down and go along the shadow; near eye apply a bit of red-> blend!

WOUNDS IN DRY SKIN
• Make skin look a bit sore
• Use super colour
• Powder-> for extra dryness and to take down redness if it is too much
• Bit of Vaseline on sore bits and blood

RUSH
• Mix alcohol with the colour you want to use
• Model should close eyes
• Use 2 red tones
• Flick it with a brush( freckles can be done like that)

HOT & SWEATY
• Red face/cheeks
• Down the nose, cheeks, chin, forehead stipple with fingers
• Don’t powder
• Spray water in hair and bit in face
• Push hair down


->duo on lips-> pick out skin on lips and go into the cracks with a small brush or pin and add some red/blood for bleeding effect

DIRTY HANDS
• When dirtying hands don’t forget the nails
• Bend fingers while applying the colour
• Can use tiny bit of moisturizer
• Use a sponge and brown
• Can also use brown hair spray
• Rub it right in
• Powder to make it look dusty
• Mud-> mix powder with water and water colour

dry and wounded skin

Understanding of continuity and its importance in TV and film industry

My understanding of continuity is that something continues, it keeps going and if you put it in the make up and hair context when it comes to theatre, film and TV , it means that something has to look the same. For example if a film is being shot and they do a break just in between or they continue to shoot on the next day , the make up and hair has to look exactly the same as it did before. Otherwise the audience will notice that there was an interruption. I think it is especially important when you do special effects to have notes that will help you to achieve the look again or even the use of molds if you do scars, so the actor will have the same scar and not one with a different shape or size.

To achieve the same look for my continuity assessment, I wrote down some notes and also printed out images from the first assessment and pinned them on the mirror to match it. Unfortunately my printer does not print that well and the images were kind of in a bad quality but I had them also on my phone so it was alright. The most important thing for my continuity assessment was the recreation of the run down tears. It was tricky because you can't really direct the way of the tears. That's why I practiced before the assessments which the best angle is to apply the tears with the pipette. Apart from recreating the direction of the tears I also had to consider the mixing ration of the water and grey pigment I used to create the run down tears. It seems that for the continuity assessment the ratio was a bit darker/stronger and so the tears looked slightly darker, but I think it is not that obvious. Hopefully! Another point where I had to pay attention to were the dark circles underneath the eyes. I had to make sure that they are not darker or lighter then before. Otherwise there wasn't anything else when it comes to the make up. I was quite relaxed with the hair, because most of it it was underneath a veil. Nonetheless I tried my best to recreate the same hairstyle. I also took pictures of how the hair looked underneath the veil and in what position the birds nest was. So basically I just had to pay attention to the curls at the front which wear poking out from underneath the veil and I thought I can't do much wrong there. Well I was wrong. There are two medium sized curling tongs we have in the studio and unluckily I grabbed the wrong one:) So when I did the ringlets at the front I noticed that they are looser than the last time and it frustrated me a bit but overall it was alright because I would mess up the curls anyway. So yeah it is important to pay attention to what kind of curling tong your are grabbing especially if they look very similar.

Otherwise I found the continuity assessment was a nice challenge for myself, to test how far I am capable to recreate the look.

Continuity notes for the hair:

• 3 sections on each side at the front for the ringlets
• when plaiting the braids which go into the bun make sure to take them a bit apart before joining, to make them look bigger
• DON'T take the plaits apart which go into the birds nest!they need to be tight
• place the nest on the right side of the head( right side if you are standing behind the person)
• apply the baby powder at last to make the hair look dry and dusty
• try to add the dried leaves and rose petals on the same places on the hair as before-> check with images

Continuity notes for the make up:

• try to get similar ratio for the tears mix as before
• tell model to lean back with her head so I can apply the tears in the right angle with the pipette 
• try applying the tears as close to the waterline as possible
• don't go too dark with the dark circles, keep comparing with the images of the first assessment as you keep applying the colours, build up the colours, you can always add more if necessary
• use supercolour for the bitten and dry lips instead of the lip stain. 

What is also important is to bring the props in that have been used for the first shoot.

Props to bring in:

• self made birds nest
• veil
• dry leaves and rose petals, remember that you placed some dry rose petals on her decollete as well
• lace necklace
• dried rose bouquet
• remind model to wear the same clothes

Images from the first assessment

Creating Estella: Hair designs

NOTE: My model has very long hair. How can I do the look still during the given time and do make up as well? 

Design 1:

  

The first design was inspired by the late Victorian hairstyle we did during our lesson. I just added some more ringlets at the back and flowers in the hair . To see the steps for that hairstyle just go to late Victorian hair post and then just add the ringlets at the back in the end. I only did the hairstyle on my dolls head so when I tried it on my model it didn't work out because she has very! long hair and by the time I curled all the hair almost 2 hours past and that was too long(I don't have that much time for the assessment!) So I had to make changes to the hairstyle as I wanted to use that design as my final design for Estella.

Design 1_ Development:

When I developed my design I did a huge bun at the back of the head to get rid of a lot of hair. Then I placed the curls I wanted to do on the bun to hide it. Otherwise I kept the ringlets at the back and added some more at the front. I will also add fresh flower heads on the assessment day.

Design 2:

For my second design I do a middle parting and separate a section on each side. Those will be plated later and then join the bun at the back. This design is more early Victorian. At the back of the head I did a huge bun which will be a normal plait which is twisted around itself and then pinned down. I also added 3 ringlets at the neck .

Design 3:

My last design had also a big bun out of a plait at the back. At the front she will have about 3-4 ringlets on each side. This is a very typical early Victorian hairstyle. But I decided not to do that design because it is too similar to my Miss Havisham hair design I did for the assessment even if it would have been the easiest and best design to do for a model with such a long hair.